The great escape- fading fast! 

When the stress of life becomes daunting, the dream of escaping to wild places brings comfort to my soul and puts a smile on my face. Living in Kenya, with 42 tribes, 40 wildlife reserves, multiple subspecies, and incredibly diverse ecosystems, creates endless possibilities. 

Generally, my thoughts flow to the far remote north and the Jade Sea, where the wind blows differently. Nestled within the dramatic landscapes of the Great Rift Valley, Lake Turkana stands as the largest desert lake in the world. Beyond a mesmerizing natural wonder, the region is rich in culture and historical significance – dubbed the “Cradle of Mankind.” 

The Omo River in Ethiopia feeds Lake Turkana. The exotic tribes that live along the Omo Valley continue down through the entire Turkana basin, where they have continued living their traditional lives for centuries. Unique to Loiyangalani, a town along Lake Turkana, four tribes live side-by-side; Turkana, Randile, Samburu, and El Molo. 

The Turkana tribe, masters of the arid expanse, have woven their lives into the very fabric of the land, forging a deep bond between their traditions and the untamed wilderness that surrounds them. With nomadic grace, they guide their herds across the vast canvas of scorched earth, living in pristine huts as they have for hundreds of years. Colorful beadwork cascades down their necks, arms, and ears. The intricate patterns woven in their garments reflect the stories of their ancestors, whispered from one generation to the next. 

Amidst the rugged terrain, the Rendile people emerge like echoes from the past. Their “Nagira” hairstyles, resembling the ripples of the wind on the sand, are a portrait of resilience. They navigate the desert’s challenges with a quiet determination, a courage passed down through generations. They are the wanderers of a world forgotten by time, leaving footprints on the shifting sands as they journey onward. Their voices carry the songs of forgotten times and the legacy of the indomitable spirit.  

Known as the famous crocodile hunters, the El Molo, guardians of the water’s edge, dwell by the shimmering shores of Lake Turkana. They are the smallest tribe, their lives intertwine with the rhythms of the lake, a mirror that reflects both their solitude and their resilience. Their traditional fishing boats glide across the water, and they still fish with traditional baskets – maters of the craft. 

El molo tribe fishing along the shore of Lake Turkana during a photo tour

 

El Molo fisherman on Lake Turkana

Originally part of the Maasai tribe when they first came down the Nile River, the Samburu split off when the Maasai continued their journey south to Tanzania. The Samburu name means the butterfly people; they not only flew off from their original tribe, but they became more colorful in their traditional dress. 

The Samburu warriors are custodians of their culture, preserving age-old customs and rituals in the face of an ever-changing world. Through their rituals, they seek to forge an unbreakable bond with nature and the spirits that dwell within it. They are incredible conservationists eating only livestock and nothing wild. The official north begins at the edge of their territory, which is teaming with wildlife and the special species of the north

Filled with large, iconic umbrella acacia trees in a stunning, arid environment among the rich, red African soil, Samburu Reserve evokes the traditional vision of “I Dream of Africa.” As the wind blows through the stunning doom palms, one instantly knows they are in a magical place. Roaming through this primal land and unique to this reserve are the mane-less lions, rare and exotic Gravy’s Zebras, red soil–stained red elephants, reticulated giraffes, Oryx, and Somali ostriches. In the stillness of what seems like an empty land, one might hear the rustle of a bush as a cheetah or leopard makes himself or herself known. 

Venturing across the country along the border of Tanzania at the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro lies Amboseli, one of the most beautiful ecosystems in Africa and home to the more traditional Maasai. Imagine stepping into a world where the horizon stretches infinitely, where the sky and land meld into a seamless expanse of earth tones and endless blue. In the sprawling savannah of Amboseli, one will find large herds of elephants gracefully traversing the vast expanse. Amboseli’s giraffes are like living sculptures, towering next, reaching for the heavens. Zebra and wildebeest synchronize their movement and patterns creating a mesmerizing visual spectacle. 

Dressed in their traditional attire, the Maasai stand out in this vast landscape. Adorned in vibrant shades of red and blue, their clothing reflects practicality and symbolism. The iconic shuka, a bright red cloth draped elegantly over their shoulders, is a hallmark of Maasai identity. Around their necks, beaded necklaces hang cascade down their bodies, each strand a story of its own. These necklaces speak in a visual language, revealing the wearer’s age, marital status, and achievements. Bracelets of beaded elegance adorn wrists, their gentle jingles echoing the rhythms of the land. 

Kenya is a tapestry of ancient cultures, exotic wildlife, dramatic ecosystems, and stunning landscapes, all mesmerizing for the eyes, mind, and soul. I’ve always maintained that Africa is the last frontier, but it is fading rapidly with the spread of modernization and the return of mass tourism. This is why, now and over the last few years, I have prioritized spending time in these last places that remain sacred. 

Experiences beyond the photograph, like Authentic Africa, have an expiration date, which makes them even more special to say nothing about how few people have experienced the remote and wild north. 

3 Responses to “The great escape- fading fast! ”

  1. Richard

    Thanks Piper for sharing your beautiful pictures and words. It must be an incredible experience to visit this area.

    • Piper

      THank you. It is unexplainable and one of my favorite places in Africa.

  2. Wendy Birnbaum

    Piper – you’ve touched my heart, soul and passions with your descriptions and stories of the depth and beauty of the Maasi and Turkana peoples and their connections with the earth, nature, and tradition ~ and their evolutions as they interact and connect with the outside world. My life is fulfilled and blessed to experience the magic and depth of the people and animals in this special space of the earth. They’ve beautifully entered into my heart and soul – it’s a reciprocal life gift to continue to reach out to support the kids and girls in their deep desire for education, knowledge and enhancement of their tribal cultures. Thank you for opening and sharing your love, passions and gifts to those of us fortunate enough to receive and embrace them. Wendy