Authentic Tribal Expedition beyond Expectations!

As our charter flight flew over the “Jade Sea” and began its descent, we all quietly knew we were landing in a remote location, traveled by few, and our pristine adventure would be one talked about for decades.

As Helen Keller stated, “Life is either a daring adventure or nothing.”

Surreal, harsh, barren, yet beautiful

One may feel as though they are landing on Mars. The first question asked as we alighted from the plane was, “When do you think a plane landed here last?” My reply was, “many months ago, when I was here for the festival. There are no commercial flights to this region. So other than supply planes and business needs, charter flights with tourist rarely land here.” My incredible guides had driven hard for two days in our safari Land cruisers to meet us upon arrival, along with the heartfelt greeting from my local guide and tribal friends.

I could write a short book, but for now, I will cover the highlights.

Our expedition started in the far North and would have us driving through the remote interior on dirt roads; the ones rarely traveled except by those seeking soulful adventures and would end in the country’s busiest modern city in the south. Over the next two days, we had the place to ourselves, as we did for the entire expedition – a real luxury in a rapidly modernizing world! We visited the villages of the last of the El Molo, the nomadic Turkana, the Rendile and Samburu, who live rather peacefully together, which is unique in tribal Africa. Our upcoming journey would then take us into the heart of their rarely visited tribal lands!

A Nomadic Life

The outside air was like a hot blow dryer upon our faces, and we were glad to be heading south, further into the coolness of the interior. As we drove along the shore and turned south, we came across a nomadic Turkana woman traveling with her children and everything she owned packed on the back of her donkeys. On top and safely tucked were her two youngest children. In such harsh environments, during the dry season, tribes move to, “greener pasture and more opportunity,” and might return should the rains come again.

The Guardian Warriors

The landscape changed drastically from one of the harshest areas on the planet to a pristine green wilderness scattered with iconic Acacia trees and cascading mountain ranges. We were visiting the Samburu, far in the north, and rarely visited by outsiders. I had been to this area in the past to spend time with the community, bring the food during the generosity campaign and speak with the elders about bringing guests with me to visit them, but never with a camera. That evening, during our big party with the village, while the men were roasting the goats, the junior chief looks over at me, points across the landscape and says “do you see the Moran’s (Swahili name for warriors) coming?!” My heart stopped and bolted for the safari vehicles to grab my cameras. These warriors were not dressed up to come to a party; they were roaming the land as guardians of the community, dressed as they are every day of their ten years as a warrior. Of course, we invited them to join us.

They slept in the village that evening, and we had some amazing photographic opportunities with them at sunrise! We then offered them a lift to our safari mobile camp, about 10 K, where they continued their journey on foot up into the hills to check on the livestock. Not know to most is that the Samburu are great conservationists and are the caretakers of well over a million acres; the largest territory in Kenya. In the remote interior of their lands, they are living traditional lives. Our visit to the community over the next few days was authentic and heartfelt.

Brotherhood

With the warm wind flying through our hair in the open-sided vehicles, we headed to the land of the Rendile, where my friend Baragsi was anxiously awaiting our arrival. No one seemed to mind the hour and a half drive as the scenery was stunning and continuously changing into the stark red soil earth scattered with the occasional iconic umbrella acacia tree. I think we felt like rock stars as the whole community had come out for the party. A visit in these remote area’s is rare and a very exciting event for the community.

The warriors were dancing in high spirits and gathered in brotherhood in the shade of a tree. Throughout the landscape, in every direction were groups of women, elders, and curious visitors. One must stop, take a deep breath, and be in awe of where they are and the authenticity of what they are experiencing.

The bride wore beads

We continued our journey south deep into the heart of the Turkana territory. My friends Juliette and Rose Mary had walked 20 K to meet us at the turn-off. When they hopped into our vehicle, they excitedly told us there was a wedding happening and would we like to attend? We raced off chattering wildly as we bounced down the bumpy tradition African road. They greeted us warmly in song and dance and Lisa Brighton gifted the bride with beads bought during our trip to India earlier that year. We also had a large donation of food to contribute. This was one of the largest villages in the area, and there were several hundred Turkana in attendance; a magical, colorful site!

Pulling out all the stops

Our camp was set up under the large thick forest of Acacia trees that lined the dry riverbed. My team pulled out all the stops impressing us with large canvas safari tents, each with their own private shower and toilet at the back, a beautiful open dining canvas, a large charging station with plenty of power, a coffee station and of course, a bar that even had an ice making machine. Yes, we have all said we don’t need luxury in the bush, and I still crawl into a small dome tent when out in the bush with my own Landy. However, as exhilarating as the true African bush is, it can also be very exhausting especially after a long day of photography. Having these comforts in such a remote location was amazing! We had brought the cook and staff from the camp in the Mara, and the service was 5-Star. Our mornings would start before sunrise with coffee around the campfire and ended with a delicious meal and a night-cap around the fire, sharing the memories of another great day. The whole staff was equally excited as we were to be there and they love the entire experience. Our last evening our Turkana friends camp down to our camp for a large barbeque; the dancing, singing, and friendship was priceless.

Sugar in our Tea

The sun was breaking the horizon filtering soft hues of light across the valley filled with beautiful acacia trees as we were driving to the village. We were greeted by the Turkana women with big smiles, as they excited informed us they had sugar in their tea that morning due to our generous gift the day before. While we were in the village, there was a constant stream of women passing by carrying big heavy loads of crops on their heads as they walked to the market. Their beauty, grace, and strength were a humbling reminder of how physically easier our daily lives are in the modern world. By contrast, their joy is much greater living in a caring, supportive community. After three incredible days in this beautiful tribal land, it was hard to say good-bye.

A chat with the women

Our adventure continued south, back through Samburu land and ending in the heart of the Pokot. The Pokot live in single-family homesteads rather than large villages. Their traditional mud huts with thatched roofs were scattered throughout the landscape. The women wear large flat beaded necklaces with a trail of beads from their headpieces down their backs and large bangle earrings. On our last evening, we gathered together in lively discussions with them about our lives in the US and their dreams for the future of their culture. It was a magical way to end such life-changing experience.

Hidden Secret of Africa

This expedition was reminiscent of those early days, over a decade ago, when I was started spending time in the Omo Valley before the tarmac roads were built, cell towers erected, and the mass tourism that followed. It was the craving to have back the authenticity of those early days that inspired me to explore the more remote tribal areas in Kenya. The past five years have been magical!

What few people realize is 42 tribes are living in Kenya, each contributing to the country’s diverse heritage. The north is one of the most tribal rich regions in the world, separated from the tribes in the Omo only by a line drawn on a map in the first colonization of Africa. While others are busy running off to other tribal area’s that are just opening up, I will relish having this area stay pristine as long as possible and a hidden secret of Africa. However, like every corner of the planet, the signs of change are coming as the country continues to modernize. It is sad to know we are the last generation with a small window of opportunity to enjoy these beautiful tribes living authentically on their lands with thousands of years of wisdom about the ancient ways.

Friendship and Trust

I am often asked about my relationships with these tribes. Since my first visit to a Maasai village 15 years ago I was memorized and fascinated with their culture and way of life. I yearned to learn and experience more of these beautiful tribal communities. Yes, they are strikingly beautiful, but my deep love and respect for them go way beyond the photograph.

I have spent thousands of hours alone out in these remote tribal regions because it is where I find my soul is most alive. I have spent at least half that time only enjoying their company and daily lives, without a camera in hand. There are still pristine tribal areas where you are not allowed to photograph; I have visited them anyway.   I have slept in their huts and watch small boy grows into warriorhood, and little girls grow into beautiful women. The memories, friendships, and trust I have built in these communities have greatly enriched my life beyond anything I could ever imagine, and I cherish that above everything.

In 2016 I ran the generosity campaign, and with your help, we raised thousands of dollars in food, which I drove up to the villages in the remote north during one of the worst droughts of the past decade.

I can’t think of a better way to end my 15^th year photographing in Africa than bringing a small group of 6 guests with me on this amazing Authentic Africa Tribal Expedition.

There is a very small window of opportunity to still visit some of these pristine tribal places. If you desire to have a deeper authentic travel experience beyond the “Polished” mass travel destination, in 2020 I will be taking another small group into this beautiful area – details